19   Interference (Part 4)                                            

I had previously changed from aftermarket front wheels to GM code DC Rally wheels because the front caliper bodies needed to be ground down to clear the aftermarket wheels, and because I wanted the front wheels to match the rear wheels (GM code AG Rally). Shortly after I made the change, the front tires began to rub the fenders on turns. I don't  know what it sounded like outside the car, but it was both embarrassing and annoying on the inside.

I decided to replace the ten year old sagging springs with new ones from Eckler's Early Chevy. The existing springs were 1956 Corvette with one and a half coils removed. I replaced them with 1954 Chevrolet passenger car springs, which were stiffer. After a trial fit, I cut one coil from the right spring and reinstalled it. The car still had the front end high look of a Gasser. I re-removed the spring and cut another half coil off. On reinstallation, the front end sat about two inches higher than before. Enough to minimize the scraping and close enough to the look I wanted to be acceptable. I cut the other spring to match and reinstalled it along with new shocks (62 Corvette) and new lower shock brackets from Eckler's.

Attached is an instruction I found on the internet to prevent hurting yourself when working on a coil spring front end:

Materials:
Get a 1/2 inch or 5/8th inch threaded rod about 3 foot long.
Get 3 nuts that fit the rod.
Get an assortment of large flat washers. You need two with a diameter slightly more than the nut (roughly 1 inch dia.), three that are larger (1" to 2"), and then a very large one (3" to 4"). Since the last one is hard to find, I have used ½ inch pipe flanges, as the 3/4 inch hole lets the rod through and the flange is about 3-1/2 inches in diameter, plus they are strong.

Procedure:
1. Remove the shock absorber from inside the front springs.
2. Slide the rod through the small top hole in the frame and the large bottom hole in the a-arm for the shocks.
3. Install two large washers and small washer on top. Put a thin layer of grease between them.
4. Install the top nut.
5. Install the pipe flange, large washer, small washer, and nut on the bottom. The nut should be positioned at least three inches from the end of the rod.
6. Install a second nut as a backup to the first. It only has to be snug to the other nut.
7. Pull the rod up from the top by hand and apply oil to the threads above the top shock mount. Run the top nut down until the nut and washers are snug to the top shock mount. There should be at least 6 inches of rod showing.
8. With a wrench, slowly tighten the top nut until the spring compresses slightly.

WARNING: Do not have anyone or any body parts under the front suspension or to the side of the spring.

9. This next section can be done two ways, depending on if you are removing/separating ball joints or removing a-arms.

a. Removing a-arms

a1. Disconnect the inner pivot bolts on the pivot bar at the frame crossmember. There are two in front and one in back and they are different sizes.

b. Separating ball joints

b1. Loosen the ball joint nut.
b2. Separate the lower ball joint with a ball joint press or pickle fork.

10. Slowly loosen the top nut on the rod to lower the   a-arm down and let the spring loose.

To install, reverse the procedure.

The remove, install, re-remove, cut, reinstall, re-re-remove, re-cut and re-reinstall process brought back fond memories of the exact same procedure when I originally installed the front end. This time, though, I turned the front steering by grabbing the right front rotor on the sides and moving the steering which dislodged the caliper enough to cause it to leak, requiring rebuilding. I also noticed a witness mark where the right front brake hose was rubbing on the spindle. I had all four hoses replaced and the system filled with DOT4 fluid, the brakes bled and the wheel bearings repacked at Morrison (CO) Carworks. After I gave up trying to source the hoses, I asked Clint Raymond, the owner, to find them for me. The rear hoses were replaced with '67-68 Camaro front hoses, but he couldn't find correct length hoses for the front. He had custom front hoses made locally. They turned out to be $7.00 each less than the store-bought rears.

Clint mentioned to me that the frame was beginning to crack where the steering had moved outboard. I called Joe Qualls at Color on Wheels / Masterpiece Hot Rods in Denver. He repaired the crack and reinforced the frame. I expect and get excellent work from him every time, and the price is always a pleasant surprise.